Inkcazo yelaphu lejacquard
Ilaphu leJacquard elilukwa ngomatshini kusetyenziswa imisonto emibini nangaphezulu enemibala ekuluka ngokuthe ngqo iipateni ezintsonkothileyo kwilaphu, kwaye ilaphu elivelisiweyo lineepateni ezimibalabala okanye uyilo.Ilaphu leJacquard lihluke kwinkqubo yokuveliswa kweendwangu eziprintiweyo, ezibandakanya ukuthunga kuqala, kwaye ilogo yongezwa.
Imbali yeendwangu zejacquard
Umanduleli we ijacquardilaphu
Umanduleli welaphu lejacquard yiBrocade, ilaphu lesilika elavela kwiZhou Dynasty yaseChina (inkulungwane ye-10 ukuya kweyesi-2 ngaphambi kwepaki), eneepatheni ezinemibala kunye nezakhono ezivuthiweyo.Ngeli xesha, ukuveliswa kwamalaphu esilika kwakugcinwe kuyimfihlo ngamaTshayina, kwaye kwakungekho lwazi luluntu.Kwi-Han Dynasty (iminyaka engama-95 epakini), i-Chinese Brocade yazisa iPersia (ngoku eyi-Iran) kunye ne-Daqin (uBukhosi bamaRoma bamandulo) ngeSilk Road.
IHan Brocade: Iinkwenkwezi ezintlanu eziphuma empuma ukuze kuxhamle iTshayina
Izazi-mlando zaseByzantine ziye zafumanisa ukuba ukususela kwi-4 ukuya kweye-6 inkulungwane, ukuveliswa kwe-tapestry kwi-silika kuye kwabakho, kunye nelinen kunye noboya bezona zindwangu ziphambili.Kwakungenkulungwane ye-6 apho iimonki zazisa imfihlo ye-sericulture-imveliso yesilika-kumlawuli waseByzantine.Ngenxa yoko, abantu baseNtshona bafunda indlela yokuzala, ukukhulisa nokondla imibungu yesilika.Ukusukela ngoko, iByzantium yaba ngoyena mvelisi mkhulu kwaye ungoyena mkhulu kwihlabathi laseNtshona, ivelisa iintlobo ngeentlobo zeepateni zesilika, kubandakanya iibrocade, iidamaski, iibrocatelles, kunye namalaphu afana netapestry.
Ngexesha leRenaissance, ukuntsonkotha kwelaphu lesilika lase-Italiya lokuhombisa liye landa (kuthiwa kuphuculwe ukuluka isilika), kwaye ukuntsonkotha kunye nomgangatho ophezulu wamalaphu esilika anobunewunewu kwenza i-Italiya yaba yeyona nto ibalulekileyo kunye neyona mveliso yelaphu yesilika egqwesileyo eYurophu.
Ukuveliswa kwejacquard loom
Ngaphambi kokuveliswa kweJacquard loom, i-Brocade yayichitha ixesha ukuvelisa ngenxa yokuhombisa okuyinkimbinkimbi.Ngenxa yoko, la malaphu ayenexabiso eliphezulu yaye efumaneka kuphela kwizihandiba nezinhanha.
Ngomnyaka we-1804 uJoseph Marie Jacquard wenza 'umatshini weJacquard,' isixhobo esifakwe kwi-loom-mounted esenze lula ukuveliswa kweendwangu ezintsonkothileyo ezifana ne-Brocade, i-damask, kunye ne-matelassé."Ikhonkco lamakhadi lilawula umatshini."amakhadi amanqindi amaninzi abotshelelwe kunye kulandelelwano oluqhubekayo.Imingxunya emininzi iyagqojozwa kwikhadi ngalinye, kunye nekhadi elinye elipheleleyo elihambelana nomqolo omnye woyilo.Lo matshini mhlawumbi lolona tshintsho lubalulekileyo lokulukwa, njengoko ukuphalazwa kweJacquard kwenze ukuba kube nokwenzeka ukuveliswa okuzenzekelayo kweentlobo ezahlukeneyo zokuluka iipateni ezintsonkothileyo.
Ukuveliswa kweJacquard loom kube negalelo elikhulu kushishino lwempahla olulukiweyo.Inkqubo ye-Jacquard kunye ne-attachment eyimfuneko ye-loom ibizwa ngegama lomqambi wabo.Igama elithi 'jacquard' alingqalanga okanye lilinganiselwe kuyo nayiphi na intambo yokuluka kodwa ibhekisa kwindlela eyongezelelweyo yolawulo eyenza ipatheni ngokuzenzekelayo.Amalaphu aveliswa lolu hlobo lwe-loom angabizwa ngokuba 'yilaphu yejacquard.Ukuveliswa komatshini we-jacquard kwandisa kakhulu ukuveliswa kweendwangu zejacquard.Ukususela ngoko, iingubo ze-jacquard ziye zasondela kubomi babantu abaqhelekileyo.
Iingubo zeJacquard namhlanje
Iingubo zeJacquard zitshintshile ngokuphawulekayo kwiminyaka.Ngokuqulunqwa kwekhompyuter, i-Jacquard loom yasuka ekusebenziseni uluhlu lwamakhadi abethelweyo.Ngokwahlukileyo, iJacquard looms isebenza ngeenkqubo zekhompyuter.Ezi zixhobo zihamba phambili zibizwa ngokuba ziiJacquard looms zekhompyutha.Umyili ufuna kuphela ukugqiba uyilo lwepateni yelaphu ngesoftware kwaye enze inkqubo ehambelanayo yokusebenza kwe-loom ngekhompyuter.Umatshini we-jacquard wekhompyutheni unokugqiba imveliso.Abantu akusekho mfuneko yokuba benze iseti entsonkothileyo yamakhadi agqojoziweyo kuyilo ngalunye, ukunciphisa kakhulu imfuno yegalelo lesandla kunye nokwenza inkqubo yokuluka ilaphu ye-jacquard isebenze ngakumbi kwaye ingabizi kakhulu.
Inkqubo yokuvelisa i-jacquard fabric
Uyilo kunye noCwangciso
Xa sifumana uyilo lwelaphu, okokuqala kufuneka siyiguqule ibe yifayile yoyilo enokuthi ibonwe yijacquard loom yekhompyuter kwaye emva koko ihlele ifayile yenkqubo ukulawula umsebenzi womatshini wejacquard wekhompyuter ukugqiba ukuveliswa kwelaphu.
Ukudibanisa umbala
Ukuvelisa ilaphu njengoko liyilwe, kufuneka usebenzise imisonto yombala echanekileyo ukuvelisa ilaphu.Ngoko umfaki-mbala wethu kufuneka akhethe imisonto ethile engqamana nombala oyiliweyo kumawaka emisonto aze athelekise le mibala ifanayo nombala woyilo ngamnye de kukhethwe imisonto ewufanela kakuhle umbala oyilwayo ——Rekhoda inombolo yomsonto ohambelana nayo.Le nkqubo ifuna umonde namava.
Ukulungiselela umsonto
Ngokwenombolo yomsonto ebonelelwe ngumbala, umphathi wethu wogcino unokufumana ngokukhawuleza uMsonto ohambelana nawo.Ukuba isitokhwe sobuninzi asanelanga, sinako ukuthenga ngokukhawuleza okanye ukwenza ngokwezifiso uMsonto ofunekayo.Ukuqinisekisa ukuba amalaphu avelisiweyo kwibhetshi enye ayinamahluko wombala.Xa ulungiselela uMsonto, sikhetha uMsonto owenziwe kwibhetshi efanayo kumbala ngamnye.Ukuba inani lemisonto kwibhetshi alanelanga, siya kuphinda sithenge ibhetshi yoMsonto.Xa ilaphu livelisa, sisebenzisa zonke iibhetshi ezisanda kuthengwa zoMsonto, singaxubi iibhetshi ezimbini zoMsonto ukuvelisa.
Ukwaluka ilaphu leJacquard
Xa zonke iintambo zilungile, iintambo ziya kudibanisa kumatshini we-jacquard wokuvelisa, kwaye iintambo zemibala eyahlukeneyo ziya kudibaniswa ngomyalelo othile.Emva kokungenisa ifayile yeprogram esebenzayo, umatshini we-jacquard owenziwe ngekhompyutha uya kugqiba imveliso yelaphu eyiliweyo.
Unyango lwelaphu leJacquard
Emva kokuba ilaphu lilukiwe, kufuneka liphathwe ngeendlela zomzimba kunye neekhemikhali ukuze kuphuculwe ukuthamba kwalo, ukunganyangeki kwelaphu, ukunganyangeki kwamanzi, ukukhawuleza kombala, kunye nezinye iimpawu zelaphu.
Ukuhlolwa kwelaphu leJacquard
Ukuhlolwa kweJacquard Fabric Emva kokulungiswa kwempahla, onke amanyathelo okuvelisa agqityiwe.Kodwa ukuba ilaphu lifuna ukuhanjiswa kubathengi, uvavanyo lokugqibela lwelaphu luyafuneka ukuze kuqinisekiswe:
- Ilaphu lithe tyaba alinazikrweqe.
- Ilaphu alikho i-weft oblique.
- umbala uyafana nowokuqala.
- Ubungakanani bepateni buchanekile
Iimpawu zelaphu lejacquard
Izinto eziluncedo kwilaphu lejacquard
1. Isitayela sendwangu yejacquard inoveli kwaye inhle, kwaye isibambo sayo asifani;2. Iingubo zeJacquard zizityebi kakhulu ngemibala.Iipateni ezahlukeneyo zinokulukwa ngokweengubo ezahlukeneyo zesiseko, zenze umahluko wemibala eyahlukileyo.Wonke umntu unokufumana izitayile azithandayo kunye noyilo.3. Ilaphu leJacquard lilula ukunyamekela, kwaye likhululekile kakhulu ukunxiba kubomi bemihla ngemihla, kwaye lineempawu zokukhanya, ukuthamba, kunye nokuphefumla.4. Ngokungafaniyo noyilo olushicilelweyo kunye nolwesitampu, iipateni zokuluka ilaphu lejacquard aziyi kuphelelwa okanye zigruzuke iimpahla zakho.
Ukungalungi kwelaphu lejacquard
1. Ngenxa yoyilo oluyinkimbinkimbi lwamalaphu e-jacquard, ubuninzi be-weft yengubo buphezulu kakhulu, okuya kunciphisa ukunyanzeliswa komoya kwengubo.2. Uyilo kunye nokuveliswa kweendwangu ze-jacquard ziyinkimbinkimbi, kwaye ixabiso liphezulu kakhulu phakathi kweendwangu zezinto ezifanayo.
Ukuhlelwa kweengubo zejacquard
Brocade
I-Brocade inepateni kuphela kwelinye icala, kwaye elinye icala alinayo ipateni.Ibrokade inezinto ezininzi: ·1.Amalaphu etafile.I-Brocade igqwesile kwiiseti zetafile, ezinje ngeenapkeni, amalaphu etafile, kunye namalaphu etafile.Ibrokade ihombise kodwa yomelele kwaye iyakwazi ukumelana nokusetyenziswa kwemihla ngemihla ·2.Impahla.I-Brocade igqwesile ekwenzeni iimpahla, ezinje ngeebhatyi ezisikiweyo okanye iigawuni zangokuhlwa.Ngelixa amalaphu anzima awanayo idrape efanayo namanye amalaphu alula, ukuqina kwawo kudala i-silhouette eyakhiweyo.·3.Izincedisi.I-Brocade ikwadume ngezinto zefashoni ezifana nezikhafu kunye neebhegi.Iipateni ezintle kunye namalaphu ashinyeneyo zenza inkangeleko ebukekayo kwiingxelo zamaqhekeza.·4.Ukuhlobisa ikhaya.I-Brocade cades ibe yeyona nto iphambili yokuhombisa ikhaya kuyilo lwabo olunomtsalane.Ukuqina kwe-Brocade kwenza ukuba ilungele upholstery kunye ne-drapes.
Brocatelle
I-Brocatelle ifana ne-Brocade kuba inepateni kwelinye icala, kungekhona kwelinye.Eli laphu ngokwesiqhelo linoyilo oluntsonkothileyo kuneBrocade, enomgangatho owahlukileyo ophakanyisiweyo, okhukhumeleyo.I-Brocatelle ngokubanzi inzima kwaye yomelele ngakumbi kune-Brocade.I-Brocatelle ihlala isetyenziselwa iimpahla zesiko kunye neziphambili, ezinje ngeesuti, iilokhwe, njl.
eDamask
Uyilo lweDamask luphawulwa ngesiseko kunye nemibala yepateni ebuyela umva ukuya ngasemva.I-Damask idla ngokungafaniyo kwaye yenziwe ngemicu ye-satin yokuziva kakuhle.Imveliso yokugqibela yimathiriyeli yelaphu elitofotofo elibuyiselwa umva elinezinto ezininzi.Ilaphu laseDamask lisetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo kwaye liveliswa kwiiMpahla, iiSkirt, iibhatyi eziFancy, kunye neeCoat.
Matelassé
I-Matelassé (ekwaziwa njengelaphu eliphindwe kabini) bubuchule bokuluka obuphefumlelweyo baseFrentshi obunika ilaphu ukubukeka okukhutshiweyo okanye okukhutshiweyo.Amalaphu amaninzi afakwe kwi-jacquard ayakwazi ukuphunyezwa kwi-loom ye-jacquard kwaye yenzelwe ukulinganisa indlela yokuthunga ngesandla okanye ukuthunga.Amalaphu e-Matelassé afanelekile kwizigqubuthelo zokuhombisa, ukujula imiqamelo, iibhedi, izigqubuthelo zequilt, iiduvethi, kunye neepillowcases.Ikwasetyenziswa kakhulu kwibhedi yebhedi nakwibhedi zabantwana.
Tapestry
Kwisigama sanamhlanje, "i-Tapestry" ibhekisa kwilaphu elilukiweyo kwi-jacquard loom ukulinganisa ii-tapestries zembali."I-Tapestry" ligama elingacacanga kakhulu, kodwa lichaza ilaphu elinzima elinobugcisa obunemibala emininzi.I-Tapestry nayo inombala ochaseneyo ngasemva (umzekelo, ilaphu elinamagqabi aluhlaza kumhlaba obomvu liya kuba neqabunga elibomvu libuyele kumhlaba oluhlaza) kodwa likhulu, liqinile, kwaye linzima kunedamaski.I-tapestry idla ngokulukwa ngomsonto otyebileyo kuneBrocade okanye iDamask.I-Tapestry yokuhlobisa ikhaya: isofa, umqamelo, kunye nelaphu lesitulo.
Cloque
Ilaphu le-Cloque linepatheni ye-weave ephakanyisiweyo kunye nenkangeleko ecekethekileyo okanye enqabileyo.Umphezulu uqulunqwe ngamanani amancinci aphakanyiswe ngokungaqhelekanga akhiwe yisakhiwo sokuluka.Le ngubo ye-jacquard yenziwe ngokuhlukileyo kunezinye iingubo ze-jacquard ngokuba zenziwe ngenkqubo yokunciphisa.Imicu yendalo kwilaphu iyancipha ngexesha lemveliso, ibangela ukuba izinto zigqunywe ngamaqhuma afana ne-blister.Iingubo ezivalelekileyo kunye neelokhwe ezinqabileyo eziqhele ukusetyenziswa kwiziganeko ezahlukeneyo kunye nemisitho ziyilwe kweli laphu kwaye zisesikweni kwaye zintle.Intle kwaye ikhupha ubugocigoci obungenakuthelekiswa nezinye izinto.
Ixesha lokuposa: Feb-17-2023